PLMS SR20 Wiring Looms

We are not accepting any more wiring jobs until after Christmas. This is due to a large amount of orders already taken as well as other commitments. Sorry for any inconvenience this may cause but we'd rather not take on more jobs when we cannot possibly deliver.

This service is offered to those who have bought an “engine package” or whole frontcut and intend to run their converted SR20 using the factory engine management. It represents a very cost effective way to get your SR going with a minimum of fuss, as no aftermarket ECU, coils or igniter need to be purchased and no dyno tuning is necessary. Once the loom has been modified the average owner is generally quite capable of fitting it to their car and getting the engine running.

Please note: We only offer this service to Australian customers. We've had many enquiries from overseas but logistical problems prevent us from doing this. Sorry. If you are in the USA please see Mark at EOperformance in Washington State. He's a Datsun freak and should be able to help you out.

What’s involved?

The looms are NOT "made from scratch". Just sourcing the connectors would be nigh on impossible. Rather, the existing SR loom is disassembled and a series of relays and fuses are added to ensure that all parts of the EFI system are fed power correctly.

*** NEW *** All relays and fuses are now mounted on a bracket inside the cabin. The igniter can also be moved inside the car for some applications. If you're a Datto 1600 owner then you may wish to take advantage of our new mounting tray setup. Details here

Details

All relays are configured as per the original vehicle to ensure your SR runs just like it did from the factory.
All sub-circuits are fused correctly so that in the event of a failure everything is protected and if necessary an analysis can be made using the factory wiring diagram.
All wire joins in the loom are insulated with heatshrink for maximum reliability before the loom is re-assembled.
All relevant wires are clearly labelled and any parts that are not required are removed to tidy things up.
A diagnostic Port is added to the loom. More details below.
Once the loom is complete we assemble the whole EFI system and test it on the bench. We have set up some electronics to simulate CAS and speed signals - as well as all the minor sensors, injectors etc. This ensures that the ECU, Airflow Meter and the loom itself are serviceable.
The Airflow Meter sensing element is cleaned.
Detailed installation instructions are provided - as well as a sheet of "SR20 startup tips and traps" to help ensure a trouble free first start.

Basic completed loom

What vehicles are catered for?

The most common conversions are the Datto 1600 (510) and Bluebird (910). But most vehicles can be catered for provided you can supply a few basic measurements. We've done looms for Gazelles, 180Bs, Stanzas, Clubmans, Toyota Sprinters and many more.

What’s left for the owner to do?

There are only 4 basic wires to connect:

+12V from Battery positive (via a fused source)
"START" signal from the Ignition Switch
"IGN ON" from the Ignition Switch
Fuel Pump positive

Wires for Tacho and Temp Gauge will also be labelled so you can use those in your car if you want.

Which SR20's do you support?

We do them all. DE and DET. Prices vary - see down bottom of page. We do not do CA18's.

Which SR20 should I buy?

We get asked this all the time. It often comes down to what's avaialable. If you find a good clean engine at a reasonable price then don't worry about what model it is.

The problem with S15's - NATS

Australian delivered S15's have the Nissan Anti Theft System (NATS) built into the ECU. This needs to be taken into account if you intend to fit an S15 SR20. Japanese delviered (JDM) S15's don't have NATS. If you've got an Aussie delivered S15 then you options are (in order of preference):

Remap the ECU to JDM by fitting a daughterboard (we can do this if necessary)
Source a JDM ECU
Source the original IGN key and NATS unit and wire into the ECU

When the Aussie delivered ECU is remapped to JDM we can do tweaks like tidying up the IGM maps and total removal of the speed limiter.

What parts do I need to run an SR20 with the factory EFI system?

Most importers know which parts need to be supplied with an engine package to get it going, but below is a checklist to keep 'em honest (parts shown are for S13 DET):

The following parts should still be mounted on the engine, but sometimes they go missing or get damaged, so it's worth checking when you buy your engine:

O2 Sensor You should find this mounted in the section of exhaust just after the turbo. They are easily damaged so check that it's OK. There are two types - bigg'uns (18mm thread - usually found on the later "black top" S13 SR's) and small'uns (12mm thread - usually found on earlier "red top" S13 SR's).
Speed Sensor. These are fitted in the gearbox where you'd normally expect to find the speedo cable. Normally treated as "optional". See more on this below under "Speed Sensor Interface".
Crank Angle Sensor (Dizzy). Another one that is easily damaged. Check the connector on the loom that plugs into this one too. It is right at the front of the engine making these the most often damaged part.
All factory engine sensors (TPS, 2x water temp sensors, detonation sensor). It's rare to have problems with these. The detonation sensor is nestled down under the inlet manifold mounted to the side of the engine block so it's well protected. Water temp sensors are a similar story. They are both mounted in the thermostat housing just next to the throttle body. One is for supplying a temp signal to the ECU (the 2 way one) and the other is for the temp gauge (single way).
Coils and coils sub-loom
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Strangely enough this is to be found on the throttle body! Responsible for really messing up an SR if it is dodgy or adjusted incorrectly. The one thing to watch out for here is that the auto and manual versions are different. See below.

Are there differences between the manual and auto looms?

Yes, but they are of little consequence. The main difference is that the auto looms have a 6 pin connector on the Throttle Position Sensor, while manuals use a 3 pin connector. You can still run an auto loom with a manual transmission, you just have to make sure that the TPS connector on the engine matches that of the loom ie: if the engine has a 6 pin TPS then you need a loom with a 6 pin connector.

Can I run an Auto ECU with my manual trans?

Yes, but they tend to have idle quality issues. Some (50F11) also run "milder" maps (= less HP) than the manual ECU's so it's recommended that they be re-mapped to a manual. (Email me for details).

Manual S13 SR20DET ECU's will have a 50F0X PN (eg: 50F00 or 50F05 are the most common ones). Auto PNs start at 50F10 (eg: 50F10 and 50F11 are the most common ones).

What about the wiring on the right side of the engine?

This is not part of the EFI system and is not part of the service. There's actually very little to do anyway. The usual stuff you'll find on any engine - Starter Motor, Alternator, Oil Pressure Switch and the Neutral Switch on the gearbox. Much of the wiring in this area needs to be done with the engine in the car to get lengths correct, but if you send this loom with the EFI loom we'll pull it to bits, remove all the stuff you don't need and label the stuff that you do - for free.

There's some information HERE to show what you how it works.

Diagnostic Port

We've been working with the diagnostic port on the SR for some time now. But usually it's forgotten about when it comes to engine conversions. Because the connector itself is hidden away over the other side of the car it isn't included in an engine package. And even guys with front-cuts tend to forget about it as the wiring goes through the dash loom.

But it doesn't have to be like this! All you need to do is source a connector from the wreckers (most Nissans have them) and wire it in. Wiring details here. Any diagnostic scan tool can then be plugged in to access a whole range of things including diagnostic codes, sensor data (in real time), active tests and a heap more. If you have access to a laptop then you only need a Consult Interface cable and you are ready to get intimate with your SR!

The diagnostic port connector is now a standard part of all SR20 loom jobs - supplied, fitted and tested.

OPTIONS

Speed Sensor Interface

If you want your SR to run JUST like factory then you may want this. The SR turbo engines will usually run fine without a "speed" signal going to the ECU. This signal is used to hold a high idle when coasting to a stop - so they may have a tendency to stall without it. Many guys simply turn the idle up a tad in an effort overcome this.

The SR20DE engines are another thing altogether. Depending on exactly which engine/ECU you have the symptoms may vary from a complete cut at a certain speed to the engine only revving to around 6000 rpm. Either problem is very annoying and can be fixed by either wiring in the factory speedo or fitting a Speed Sensor Interface so that the ECU gets the correct signal.

We build these up on a custom made circuit board which is then mounted in a miniature plastic box (about the size of a match box). We fit about 300mm of wire to allow connection to your wiring - instructions provided. It's usually best to mount them on the lid of the ECU so that you can easily tap into the necessary wires. If purchased as part of a wiring loom job the unit will be wired up of course. All units tested before dispatch. $AU50

More details here

PRICES

$AU375	S13 SR20 Loom job - includes all parts, diagnostic port and detailed test.
$AU400	S14/15 SR20 Loom job - includes all parts, diagnostic port and detailed test.
$AU25	Return shipping (registered) within Australia.

Options

$AU70	Mounting plate - for Datsun 510 only details here
$AU50	Speed Sensor Interface.

I tend to be pretty busy so you may have to book in advance - please email me and I'll let you know what the current workload is.

Email to Pete

Last modified : Tuesday, 18-Nov-2008 05:23:37 EST